Couple of weeks have passed since I published my last blog post. What I’ve been doing all that time? Well, I’m still in Rio Dulce, Guatemala but not staying in marina as before. I think I have finally started cruising life although I’m not sure if I want to cruise in the way as many cruisers I’ve met do. Future shows.
I learnt a lesson one day. It’s shalow water all around here so once when I was docking Magico alongside a pier I was paying a lot of attentition to the depth. Okey, that’s right you may think. But I somewhow forgot that I’m on a sailboat with 10m hight mast and run into branches of tress on the shore. Engine died, I could not crank it on (that’s probably what all engines tend to do in the most inappropriate moments) and river current was pushing Magico to the rocky shore. Fortunately the process was slow and I managed to get a help from lanchero with his lancha.
The rainy season has started and we have storms with strong downpurs every day now. During the days the weather is fair and sunny but in the nights the rain regulary comes along with thunders and flashes all night. Good thing is that I don’t have any water leaks from the portlights and hatches! Well, at least for the moment.
I spend now a lot of time in a bay called Cayo Kemado down the river Rio Dulce, about 10 miles from Fronteras, where with friend Kenny we work on my new dinghy. Simple reglueing of the tubes with fiberglass bottom wouldn’t work so we employ some Kenny’s tricks in the process. If I had known all the time and money required I wouldn’t have started that damn project. Anyway, we are getting there. Once a week I sail back to Fronteras to stock up and buy the stuff I need for the work on the dinghy. It’s usually nice downwind sail trip with average speed about 5-6 knots. The way back to Kayo is upwind and as the wind sometime picks up a lot and small waves build up it’s always good opportunity to test and adjust all gear on board. So for example I have found out I need to replace topping lift, jib sheets and couple of pulleys and one dubble pulley for main sheet. Better to find out here on the river then somewhere on the sea.
Kayo Kemado is inhabitated by small and very friendly cummunities and supersingly it’s a lot of culture here. I mean the marina here, hostel/bar Casa Redonda, Aqua Kaliente or Hotelito Perdido. But most of the time is quite quiet. Further down the river is Livingston with Garifuna culture where we sometimes hang out. Basic things you can buy in surrounding small stores. The reason I write those words is because when I was going from Rio Dulce to Livingston for the first time some six months ago I didn’t notice anything from it. This is the beaten track for the majority of turists here and I think they simply don’t have a chance to experience this area as they hop fast between ‘major attractions’. But perhaps it’s caused by the difference between backpacker turism and crusing/living on a boat. I mean this area is not loaded by historical sites, restaurants, bars or diving centers but is still very interesting and appealing to me. It’s also more about the nature which is awesome here, especially the gorge.
Again, the departure from Guatemala is postponed. But this time not due to technical glitches but simply due to the money thing. Although I live now very simple life and I don’t spend much for attractions and in bars I’m running out of money. So before I leave for Belize or Honduras I need to save some. I might leave Guatemala during June but then the hurricane season starts.
Below is an update a few days old.
I also run into another very nice sailboat for sale here with windvane steering, big water tanks, refrigeration, head, radar, windlass and nice galley. Also, it’s way more spacious down below as it’s 4ft longer. So I put Magico on sale to see if there is a chance to sell it. If the price was good I would sell it and perhaps I would buy the bigger boat. Or maybe not, maybe I would jump on a boat of Australian friends heading for Indonesia very soon. The thing is that I’ve got very tired here. Some reasons I have mentioned above. To buy the bigger boat would mean to fix it up, again, wait here for the end of hurricane season and then leave. I could wait for the right time to leave in Belize for example but I went there couple of days ago, only to find out that it’s fu*king expensive country to cruise and live in.